Skip to main content
ZachRoyGarage
engine
done

Small Block Chevy 350 Build Pt. 6 | This Is How It's Actually Supposed To Be Done

Subscribe
Executive Summary

This video covers the correct way to assemble and torque up a Small Block Chevy 350 engine, focusing on installing and properly torquing the heads, timing set, and valve train components. The build emphasizes correct sequences, degreeing/checking timing, and setting valvetrain geometry to ensure reliable operation.

Build Sequence

1. Prep block and clean surfaces

Thoroughly clean all mating surfaces (deck, block rails, cam gallery area) and verify the block is ready for assembly. Ensure oil passages are clear and install any required freeze plugs or cam bearings beforehand.

60mintermediate

2. Install oil pump and pickup

Prime and install the oil pump and pickup, ensuring proper drive alignment and clearances. Torque pump fasteners to spec and verify pickup is sealed to oil pan rail.

45mintermediate

3. Install timing set and align timing

Install the timing chain and gears, align timing marks per cam and crank orientation, and verify timing cover fitment. If degreeing the cam, mount the degree wheel and use a dial indicator to confirm cam timing.

90madvanced

4. Install cylinder head gaskets and heads

Place the MLS head gaskets on the deck, set the cylinder heads in position, and hand-start ARP head studs or bolts. Follow the manufacturer's torque sequence and incremental steps to final torque.

90mintermediate

5. Install lifters, pushrods, and rockers; set preload/valve lash

Fill lifters with assembly lube if hydraulic, install lifters, drop in pushrods, install rocker arms and torque to spec. Set rocker geometry and lifter preload or valve lash according to cam and head recommendations.

75madvanced

6. Install intake manifold and accessories

Place intake gaskets and torque the intake manifold bolts in the proper sequence. Install carburetor (or throttle body), fuel lines, valve covers, harmonic balancer, and other accessories.

60mintermediate

7. Rotate engine, check for interference and final checks

Manually rotate the engine several revolutions, check for valve-to-piston clearance if applicable, verify oil pressure path, and ensure there are no binding points in the valvetrain. Re-check torque on critical fasteners.

45mintermediate

8. Final assembly, fluids and prep for startup

Install remaining external seals, connect sensors and plumbing, fill with oil and coolant as required, prime oil system if possible, and prepare for initial startup and break-in procedure.

60mintermediate

Frequently Asked Questions

What torque sequence and values should I use for SBC heads?

Follow the head gasket and fastener manufacturer's torque sequence and specs. A common approach is incremental torquing (e.g., 30-50-70 ft-lb depending on bolt type) in a spiral pattern from center out, but always verify with the specific parts' instructions.

VIEW FULL ARTICLE →

What should I do to prepare the engine for first start and break-in?

Prime the oiling system, use recommended assembly lube on cam lobes and lifters, verify all connections and clearances, and follow a proper break-in procedure (controlled RPMs, avoiding heavy loads, and recommended oil change interval after break-in).

VIEW FULL ARTICLE →

How important is degreeing the cam?

Degreeing the cam is critical for performance builds and any time the timing set, pistons, or cam were changed; it ensures the cam events occur where expected and can prevent piston-valve interference and optimize power. For a stock rebuild it may not always be required but it's a best practice.

VIEW FULL ARTICLE →

Do I need ARP head studs or are stock head bolts okay?

ARP head studs are recommended for performance and repeated assembly because they provide more consistent clamping and are less prone to stretching; stock bolts may be acceptable for a mild, single-assembly build but proper torque and replacement are important.

VIEW FULL ARTICLE →

How do I set lifter preload or hydraulic lash?

For hydraulic rollers, preload is typically set by tightening the rocker arm to recommended torque with the lifter on the base circle, then turning the pushrod/nut to achieve the specified preload (or follow the manufacturer's procedure). For hydraulic flat tappets, follow the valve adjustment procedure specific to the lifter and rocker setup.

VIEW FULL ARTICLE →

Parts Used (12)

Head gaskets (MLS)
Fel-Pro (typical) $120

Multi-layer steel head gasket set for small block Chevy; used when installing cylinder heads.

ARP head studs/bolts
ARP $90

High-strength fasteners for proper head clamping and torque retention.

Timing set (chain and gears)
Cloyes (typical) $80

Timing chain and gear set for SBC 350; used to index and time the cam correctly.

Oil pump
Melling (typical) $60

High-volume or stock-replacement oil pump—install before timing cover.

Intake manifold
Edelbrock (Performer typical) $300

Aluminum intake manifold commonly used on small-block Chevy performance builds.

Carburetor (4-barrel)
Holley (typical) $250

Street carb for initial tuning and startup after assembly.

Pushrods
$45

Proper length pushrods for the cam and heads used; check for straightness.

Lifters (roller or hydraulic)
$120

Hydraulic roller lifters commonly used; lifter preload must be set correctly.

Harmonic balancer / crank pulley
$75

Installed after timing set and keyway alignment.

Valve cover gaskets
Fel-Pro (typical) $20

Replace to prevent oil leaks after valve cover installation.

Misc gasket and seal kit (timing cover, oil pan, front seals)
Fel-Pro (typical) $80

Seals and gaskets needed for reassembly to prevent leaks.

Rocker arms
Comp Cams (typical) $140

Stamped or roller rockers chosen to match valve train; torque spec and geometry important.