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Project Front Loader: Pt2 Continuing to feel out the new stick welder

Published: March 28, 2026

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Executive Summary

This video documents continuing practice and work with a new stick (SMAW) welder while progressing a front loader build. The creator tests settings, practices beads and tacks, fits and welds loader components, and uses grinding and finishing to clean up joints.

Build Sequence

1. Set up welder and workspace

Position the stick welder, connect ground clamp to clean metal, install the chosen electrode, and arrange clamps and fixtures on the welding table. Ensure adequate ventilation and safety gear (helmet, gloves, jacket).

15mbeginner

2. Clean and prepare metal

Grind paint, rust, and scale from joint areas with an angle grinder or wire wheel to expose clean metal for better weld penetration and fewer defects.

20mbeginner

3. Practice beads and adjust settings

Weld test beads on scrap steel to dial in amperage, travel speed, and electrode angle for the chosen rod (e.g., 6011 for penetration, 7018 for final passes). Observe bead profile and adjust accordingly.

30mintermediate

4. Tack parts together

Use short tack welds to hold loader components in position while checking fit and alignment with clamps and a square. Re-check dimensions before final welding.

20mintermediate

5. Complete welds in segments

Stitch or run full welds, alternating sides or segments to control heat and distortion. Use appropriate electrode types for root and fill passes, and leave time for cooling between passes as needed.

60mintermediate

6. Clean welds and inspect

Chip slag, brush welds, and grind high spots or seams for a smooth finish. Inspect welds for proper fusion, penetration, and lack of defects like porosity or undercut.

30mbeginner

7. Final fitment and protection

Test-fit welded components on the loader assembly (mock-up or existing frame), then apply primer or touch-up paint to exposed metal to prevent corrosion.

20mbeginner

Frequently Asked Questions

What electrode types should I use when learning on a stick welder?

Start with a general-purpose cellulose rod like 6011 for good penetration on dirty or painted metal for practice, then use 7018 (low-hydrogen) for structural/final passes once settings and technique are consistent.

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How can I reduce warping when welding loader components?

Weld in short segments and alternate sides of the assembly to balance heat input. Use tack welds first to hold geometry, allow cooling between passes, and use clamps or fixtures to maintain alignment.

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What safety gear is essential for stick welding?

An auto-darkening welding helmet, flame-resistant gloves, long sleeves or welding jacket, safety glasses, and proper ventilation are essential. Also ensure a good ground connection and clear work area of flammable materials.

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How do I clean slag and finish my welds?

Use a chipping hammer to break slag and a wire brush to clean the bead (for cellulose and low-hydrogen electrodes). For a smoother appearance, use an angle grinder with a flap disc to blend and dress the weld.

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How do I dial in the correct amperage for the electrode?

Weld several short beads on scrap metal and adjust amperage until the arc is stable: too low leads to stubbing and poor fusion, too high causes excessive spatter and burn-through. Watch the bead shape and sound to refine settings.

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Parts Used (5)

Cellulose stick electrodes (e.g., 6011) - 5 lb
$15

Common for penetrating root passes and dirty/painted metal; used for tack and through-pass work.

Low-hydrogen stick electrodes (e.g., 7018) - 5 lb
$25

Used for final structural welds on loader components where a smoother bead and better tensile properties are desired.

Metal stock (steel plate/tube) - raw material
$10

Small amount of steel consumed for practice and fitting pieces (estimate represents small leftover/patch material used in the video).

Grinding discs / flap discs (pack)
$15

Used to clean welds and prepare metal before/after welding.

Primer / touch-up paint (small can)
$10

Applied after grinding to protect bare steel and prevent rust.