2012 Mustang GT Strut Swap | Unexpected Issues!
The video is a DIY front strut swap on a 2012 Mustang GT where the creator removes the factory struts and installs replacement strut assemblies. The job includes disassembly of the strut towers and knuckle hardware, use of spring compressors, and dealing with unexpected issues like seized fasteners and a stuck mount that add time and require extra penetrating oil and replacement hardware.
Build Sequence
1. Prepare vehicle and tools
Park on level ground, chock rear wheels, loosen front wheel lug nuts, raise the front with a floor jack and support on jack stands. Remove both front wheels to access struts.
2. Access and apply penetrating oil
Spray penetrating oil on the strut-to-knuckle bolts, sway bar endlink nuts, and top strut tower nuts to help free any rusty or seized fasteners encountered later.
3. Disconnect sway bar endlink and brake line bracket
Remove the sway bar endlink at the lower control arm and unbolt any brackets (ABS wiring or brake line brackets) attached to the strut body to clear the strut for removal.
4. Remove strut-to-knuckle bolts
Support the lower control arm with the jack, remove the two large bolts that mount the strut to the steering knuckle. If bolts are seized, use an impact or breaker bar; replacement hardware may be necessary.
5. Remove top strut tower nuts and take out the strut
Open the hood, loosen and remove the three strut tower nuts while supporting the strut from below, then lower the control arm and remove the strut assembly from the car.
6. Compress spring and disassemble strut (if transferring spring)
If reusing the springs or removing a cartridge, secure the spring compressor and carefully compress the coil, then remove the top nut and disassemble the strut to swap cartridges or mounts. Exercise caution—improper handling is dangerous.
7. Install new strut assembly
Assemble new struts with mounts (or install complete replacement assemblies), decompress springs if applicable, position the new strut into the tower, loosely install top nuts, and align with the knuckle.
8. Torque fasteners and reattach components
Torque the strut-to-knuckle bolts and top mount nuts to factory specifications, reattach sway bar endlinks, brake line/ABS brackets, and ensure all hardware is secure. Replace any damaged hardware encountered earlier.
9. Lower vehicle and test
Reinstall wheels, lower the car to the ground, torque wheel lug nuts to spec, and perform a test drive to check for noises or handling issues. Schedule a professional alignment after the swap.
10. Address unexpected issues
If bolts are seized, use penetrating oil, heat, or cut/replace fasteners. If strut mounts are stuck or springs are corroded, replace the affected components and re-evaluate safety before driving.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I reuse the old springs with new strut cartridges?
You can if the springs are in good condition, but you must use a proper spring compressor to safely transfer them. The video suggests replacing worn mounts and inspecting springs for corrosion or damage before reuse.
VIEW FULL ARTICLE →What if the strut-to-knuckle bolts are seized?
Apply penetrating oil and let it soak, use an impact wrench or breaker bar, and be prepared to replace damaged fasteners. The video shows seized bolts as an unexpected issue that added time to the job.
VIEW FULL ARTICLE →How difficult is this job for a DIYer?
The job is intermediate to advanced due to the need for a spring compressor, heavy components, and potential for seized hardware. The video demonstrates it is doable in a home garage but may present unexpected issues that increase difficulty and time.
VIEW FULL ARTICLE →Is a spring compressor required?
A spring compressor is required if you disassemble the strut/spring assembly to transfer springs or rebuild the strut. Always follow safety procedures—compressed springs store a lot of energy and can be dangerous.
VIEW FULL ARTICLE →Related Builds
Parts Used (6)
Complete front strut cartridges for both sides. Common replacement choice for S197 Mustangs.
Replace worn mounts when changing struts; recommended to do both sides at once.
New nuts/bolts recommended if old fasteners are corroded or seized.
Often removed during strut swaps; replace if worn or seized.
Helpful for freeing rusty/seized nuts and bolts encountered in the video.
Recommended after front suspension work to correct toe and camber.